Long Beach, located in the far south east corner of the island, is one of Koh Chang’s most remote areas but is still the first port of call for most visitors out exploring the east coast by motorbike.
In days of yore, the trip down here was one of legendary difficulty with horrendous pot-holes, road sections missing, broken bridges and mud tracks. Nowadays, the concrete road has been completed to the very end so it’s acutally a very pleasant drive along the bay.
Getting to Long Beach
To get to the Long Beach road, take the east coast road all the way down the island from the ferries. Look out for useful markers such Koh Chang Hospital, Than Mayom Waterfall and Koh Chang Shooting en route.
A couple of kilometres after Spa Koh Chang, you reach a left turn, signed at 12km to Long Beach. Follow this road past the Salak Khok temple and school and bear right on the bend at the bottom. You are now heading into the very local village of Chek Bae. Shortly after Parama Resort, take the left as signed and you are on the Long Beach road.
It takes about 15 to 20 minutes to reach the actual beach, but it’s well worth stopping along the way to taek some photos. The tiny Rangers’ Station in particular has some terrific vantage points.
On a clear day, you can see Koh Mak in the distance, Koh Kradat, Koh Laoya and Koh Wai as well as down into the truly beautiful Salak Phet Bay beneath .
Beyond the beach to the Koh Ngam Viewpoint
Once at Long Beach, Long Beach Bungalows (Treehouse), charming old style thatch bungalows is the only place to stay. It also makes a great spot for some lunch, with a nice mix of daytrippers and residents. The beach itself is always perfectly quiet and deserted.
Continue along the road up behind the beach past the yet (never?) to be completed Long Beach Resort and opposite the turning to Tantawan Resort – look out for two concrete poles which formerly bore its now removed sign – there’s another trail which brings you out at the far end of the sand.
Tantawan Resort, a stylish boutique resort of which no one has ever heard, is mostly used at weekends by Thai packages. In theory, if you book 2 rooms together, they are happy to have all-comers.
A little further along, you’ll find the tiny Hat Yuttanavy Beach, complete with its the boat-shaped memorial building. There’s also a dedication to the dead of The 1942 Battle of Koh Chang, which took place just offshore. Each year dignitaries assemble to commemorate the Thai sailors who lost their lives when French warships scuttled the Thai fleet.
If you follow the track which runs on to the end, you can park up to take in the wonderful views across to Koh Ngam. Ask back at Tantawan Resort to rent a kayak if you fancy paddling across. Or on another day, our private boat trip calls in here.
There is actually a resort on Koh Ngam, but it’s been closed for a few years. You’ll find a couple of lonely Cambodians caretakers, anxious to practise their English.