Up on the north west coast, the fishing village of Klong Mad sits down by the ocean, with life centred on the parallel jetties and walkways which surround the sea inlet.
Over the last few years, the village has become an epicentre for speedboats due to its close proximity to the tiny uninhabited island of Koh Raet, an integral part of a Koh Kood snorkeling trip. The speedboats chug in and out all day and in downtimes, park up two or three abreast on either side of the harbour.
Beyond their activity, there’s not much else to see, but Klong Mad does possess a certain understated charm and in amongst the local houses, you will find a couple of places to stay alongside a few cheap restaurants (including a seafood option), an excellent coffee shop and the odd minimart.
The 3 star Koh Kood Beach Resort is the stand-out accommodation, but look out too for Klongmad Hostel on the pier and the cheaper bungalows at Wave-F and Baan Bua Cottage, both popular choices.
Getting to Klong Mad
Having shot past the hospital and the small petrol station in the central area of Hin Dam , the main road brings you to a crossroads. A left turn here takes you to the northern end of Ao Tapao Beach, but for Klong Mad, you should hang a right instead.
The road soon reaches the bungalows of Wave-F, a long running operation set in a pretty garden, before it then drops down to the little bridge. Baan Bua Cottage sits just the other side of this, followed by a ramshackle row of basic houses, Suanya Resort and the village itself.
In the Village
Suanya Resort, an old style Thai spot with swimming pool, offers rooms in all sorts of different styles as well as fronting onto a tiny beach . Walk dow to the jetty at the end of the lane and you can access the sand from there. Suanya Coffee, opposite the resort entrance, makes for an ideal spot to escape the heat.
Around the inlet itself, the homestays of Klongmad Hostel, Canale and Rabieng Talay, are squeezed in among the local houses and there’s even a little seafood restaurant, King, next door to Rabieng Talay.
Heading away from Klong Mad
Immediately before Suanya Resort, another route, branching off to the right, leads north up the island, with the uniquely styled cabanas of Koh Kood Beach Resort dominating the hill at the start.
A few hundred metres further into the forest, you’ll find a collection of houses and bungalows for rent – Ban Por Homestay, Good View House, Kood Life and Koh Kood Garden.
Look out too for the tiny opening on the left hand side, which starts off with a few metres of concrete before becoming a track, washed away in places and in other parts both steep and tricky. Provided you are a proficient motorbike driver, it’s still manageable and takes under 10 minutes to reach the end. And it’s well worth the effort as it opens out onto a delightful secret beach and cove.
A curious stilted house sits on one side of the lagoon, and behind to the right, you’ll usually find a couple of little fishing boats. The house, by the way, was apparently built by the team at Bann Makok, but due to legality issues with the Thai Navy has never been occupied. Look past it into the distance and you can see Captain Hook on its own cape and their own lovely so called Palm Beach alongside it.
Back at the main road and staying on this route, Koh Kood Forest Camp (formerly Koh Kood Guesthouse by Nooky) and Small Guesthouse (sic) are the last accommodation options, before you reach the turning to Klong Yai Kee Waterfall. If you continue straight at this point, you pass Good Times Resort, new bungalows and a restaurant specialising in noodle soup, before ultimately rejoining the main Ao Salad road.
UPDATED September 22 for 22/23 High Season
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