UPDATED for 2018/19 Season
Ngamkho Beach is an area of some two to three kilometres located on the west coast between Klong Chao Beach and Bang Bao Beach .
In truth, the beach itself is not the island’s best, with it frequently disappearing completely at high tide, but the whole bay is still wonderfully pretty and it makes a great place to stay.
Most resorts are budget and mid-range, with one more expensive choice, Analay Resort, at the southern end. Beyond the resorts’s dining choices, there are some simple restaurants scattered about along the main road and the odd small store for buying essentials. The resorts themselves have their own shops and their proximity, one to another, also allows for wandering out for a change of menu.
Northern End – Ngamkho Beach
After climbing the steep hill from Klong Chao Beach, passing the coffee shop, Chic Chom Phu and restaurant Chillout Cafe along the way, the road drops down to the first of Ngamkho’s resorts, S-Beach Resort. This is one of Koh Kood’s older places, its large assortment of different style bungalows mostly pulling in Thai package tourists but also hiding away a gem of a beach at the northern end.
Along the road, two guesthouses, the Italian run Big Dreams and German run Happy Days Guesthouse sit side by side, with Paradise Divers at the front and the island post office at the rear. Opposite them, Phontip Pizza, Khao Kaeng (curry over rice local style) and Tan Yong Moo Kata (bbq at your table) are located in a non-descript row of shop houses. On this same side, Nomkhon Station nestles by the creek down the track towards the sea.
Continuing round the next bend over the bridge, a ramschackle collection of local houses including the cheap and cheerful Chaiyo Restaurant straddle the small estuary just before the turning up to Khao Ruearab (Battleship Mountain) – a rock formation that resembles the bridge of a ship, another of the island’s natural attractions.
Taking that turning in, you find the restaurant and bungalows of Baan Suan Maprao on the right hand side and Far East Resort, another Thai style resort on the left – look out for the sea-plane. Its own offshoot restaurant perches back by the main road. Further on around the bend after the building merchants, Pink Elephant has sprung up, the new home of the former owners of Viewpoint Cafe in Klong Chao, coffee and food available as before.
Once you reach Khao Ruearab, you can pick up the nature trail, on foot only, which leads all the way back to Mata Guesthouse, inland at Klong Chao Beach, a not too strenuous hike of about 45 minutes.
Ngamkho Beach – Southern End
Meanwhile, back on the main road, oceanside, the very well established resort Dusita Resort offers mid-range bungalows in an immaculately tended garden, while a few hundred metres further on at the southern end of the beach, the backpacker hang-out Ngamkho Resort, sits under the coconut trees. On the hill above, Horizon Resort, more mid-range bungalows, overlooks the beach, with great views from its sala on the rocks back down the coastline. Kinnaree Resort with restaurant and 3 bungalows is in front as you turn in.
Analay Resort, the 3 star choice on Ngamkho Beach, occupies the next cove along, with its main entrance shortly after the turning into Horizon. Analay too has a terrfic location on the hillside but it in turn looks down on its own self contained and very pretty Sai Daeng Beach.
You can access the beach by skirting along one side of the bungalows on the small lagoon or better still, take the unmarked sandy track which leads off the main road a bit further on. At the end, there’s a small beach bar, Sai Daeng Bar, as well as kayaks for rent.
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