Ngamkho Beach is an area of some three kilometres located on the west coast between Klong Chao Beach and Bang Bao Beach.
Though the beach at the northern end and the tiny strand at the far southern end is lovely, the central part is, in truth, not the island’s best – disappearing completely at high tide or turning into a mudflat at low. That said, the whole bay is still wonderfully pretty and it makes a great place to stay.
Resorts are either 2 star or budget, complimented by a growing number of restaurants and even a couple of bars, which are scattered along the main road and particularly centred around the original village.
Northern End | Inland | Southern End
Northern End – Ngamkho Beach
After climbing the steep hill from Klong Chao Beach, passing Nuch-Luang Seafood, with Home Koh Kood opposite, followed by the restaurants Tum Korat (Issan), Chillout Cafe, Chaiyo and the much larger JK Khao Kaeng – look out too for the bar Full Moon – the road drops down to the first of Ngamkho’s resorts, S-Beach Resort. Bunyagard, a much smaller resort, is near the road as you turn in.
S-Beach is one of Koh Kood’s oldest spots, its large assortment of different style bungalows mostly pulling in Thai package tourists but also hiding away a gem of a beach at the northern end. It’s home to the small cafe, Million Beach and to Huggy Beach Sunset Bar, which also serves food and has a couple of basic rooms on the river at the rear.
Along the road, the guesthouses Chor Chaba (with Hill Station Hostel) and German run Happy Days Guesthouse sit side by side, with Paradise Divers at the front and the island post office at the rear.
Opposite them, you can eat at the vegan restaurant, Mandala or grab a takeout from Ponthip Pizza – they do have a couple of tables too for dining in . On this same side at the end, the charming Nomkhon Station nestles by the creek down the track towards the sea, with Huggy Beach (as above) at the far end.
Continuing round the next bend over the bridge, you reach the village – a ramschackle collection of local houses which straddle the small estuary. At the start, Go Fishing Bar (beer garden, food and live music) is next door to the bistro, Big Bear’s House, whilst along the village front, you’ll find Corner Restaurant and the popular cafe diner Black Bananas. Lung Kluay Homestay is in one of the local houses behind.
The main inland turning takes you up to Khao Ruearab (Battleship Mountain) – a rock formation that resembles the bridge of a ship, another of the island’s natural attractions.
Inland
Taking that turning in, you find Lap Udon (Issan) restaurant on the corner, with the bungalows of Baan Suan Maprao on the right hand side and the larger Far East Resort on the left – look out for the sea-plane.
Continuing on along the back route, the bungalows and diner of Suan Nai are located on the bend after the now abandoned building merchants, whilst Sabai Bungalows (formerly Pink Elephant – the owners have retired) has rooms and the coffee shop (known for its Vietnamese style signature cup). There’s more accommodation at Suanthara with its small selection of new bungalows on the river.
A little further on, the charity Sabai Dogs, which cares for the sick and needy dogs of Koh Kood, is open from 13.00 to 16.00 daily, donations happily accepted.
Once you reach Khao Ruearab, you can pick up the nature trail, on foot only, which leads all the way back to Mata Guesthouse, inland at Klong Chao Beach, a not too strenuous hike of about 45 minutes.
Southern End
Meanwhile, back on the main road, oceanside, the long established resort Dusita Resort offers mid-range bungalows in an immaculately tended garden, whilst the cafes Good Day and Soul Good, Cicci Restaurant ands Bakery, The Kraken (octopus themed bar with food), the bistro Kood Vibes (with weed shop) and the cute Bamboo 8 Thai diner provide the action streetside.
At at the southern end of the beach, the very popular traveller hang-out The Ngam Kho Resort, sits under the coconut trees, whilst across the road and the little bridge, Ban Phuean, is home to a handful of bungalows in a clearing.
On the hill above Ngamkho, Kinnaree Resort has a range of different accommodation by the sea, with Sky Restaurant and the smaller noodle shop Meesupa at the front as you turn in. Sky has a couple of bungalows behind also.
Analay Resort, the 2 star choice on Ngamkho Beach, occupies the next cove along, with its main entrance shortly after the turning into Kinnaree. It also looks down on its own very pretty beach, known locally as Sai Daeng. You can access this either via the resort itself or by taking the unmarked sandy track leading off the main road half way up the hill.
UPDATED May 26 for 26/27 Season
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