At a Glance
- Likely to meet: Backpackers, solo travellers, party people and flashpackers
- The Beach: Not the longest beach but good sand, best at the northern end, nice vibe
- Accommodation: Mainly bungalows, huts, guesthouses but odd boutique and swankier resort, with prices from 250bt cold shower fan rooms up to 7,500bt for the pool villas
- Resorts: Nest Sense, Siam Beach, Bhumiyama, Paradise Cottage, Nature Beach, Oasis
- Bungalows: Warapura, Seaflower, Magic Garden, Little Eden, Beach Jungle, Carpe Diem, Sky Beach, Casa Beach, OYO KLKL, Sunflower, Day Night
- Guesthouses: Janrassamee, Thale, Cafe del Sunshine, Ploy Inn, Oom
- Hostels: Sleepy Owl , OYO My Hostel, Stay Inn, BB Hostel (all are currently closed, awaiting news for 22/23 season)
- Restaurants: Lots of choices, cheap Thai, western, think Khao San Road small scale
- Coco, Por Par, Roxy Bar @ Warapura, Nature Beach, Magic Garden, Oneka Seafood
- Coffee Shops: Sleepy Owl (currently closed), Roxy Bar @ Warapura
- Nightlife: Parties, dj’s, some live music, lots of bars
- Party: Ting Tong, Himmel
- Bars: Margaritaville, Gu’s Bay, Om, X Bar
- Beach and Seafront Bars: Lonely Beach Bar, Himmel on the Beach, Titanic, Beautiful Bar, Rude Boy
- Live Music: Stone Free
- Sports: Beach Jungle
- Other: Dive Shop, Internet, Minimart, Pharmacy, ATM, Ticket agents, Tattoo (lots), Motorbike Rental
- Highlights: Nightlife, meeting other travellers and fun lovers, beach
- Lowlights: Noise in the village at night
- Thai Name: Hat Tha Nam (hat, beach, tha nam, pier)
At an Island Pace – Lonely Beach
Lonely Beach is the backpacker hub and the party centre of the island.
Situated far down the south west coast, up and and over a mountain, it is split into two parts. The beach section runs for a few hundred metres from the bottom of the mountain and a kilometre or so further along, the village section is laid out along the main street and two sois which lead off it down to the rocky seafront. A new partially occupied development space sits between the beach and the village.
Accommodation ranges from shared bathroom guesthouses, to densely packed rows of bungalows and mid range offerings, right up to the odd boutique and higher end resort. On the actual beach, there are just three places to stay, with the rest in and around the village.
Bars and nightlife are centred in the village too though there are actual beach parties down on the sand throughout the year.
You will also find a range of cheap restaurants and cafes, tattooists, a gym, massage, ATM’s and tour shops.
All in all, Lonely Beach is a fun and busy place to stay, attracting both the budget travelers and backpackers and those that are just looking for a good time.
Down The Mountain and Along The Beach
Coming from the north, the road climbs out of Kai Bae Beach, first passing the main road entrance of Seaview Resort and then an excellent vantage point complete with visitor centre. The view from here is spectacular taking in the offshore islands, beaches to the north and to the south and the sea disappearing off the horizon.
The road, flanked by wonderful old trees towering above the surrounding canopy and with curves and tight corners aplenty, continues on up and over, reaching the clifftop annex of the same Seaview Resort, perched on the rock edge at the midway point, then the turning to Siam Bay, with a switchback corner immediately after, providing the first glimpse of Lonely Beach beneath.
Dropping down this last section of the mountain, the road passes the original but now abandoned huts of Siam Beach Resort on the hillside and the actual open resort itself at the bottom on the beach, before it winds on around the back, past an undeveloped area of scrubland.
The upscale Bhumiyama Beach Resort is located in the middle of the beach, the boutique Nature Beach Resort next door and the ruins of the abandoned Siam Huts at the southern end, with nothing on the mountain side but jungle and a few overfed monkeys.
You can walk through Nature Beach or the remnants of Siam Huts to get to the sand itself, with the best section running north from Nature Beach to Siam Beach Resort at the end. Just before Siam Beach, Himmel has an offshoot bar, with Loney Beach Bar, itself connected with the resort Casa Beach, alongside.
Next door to the old entrance to Siam Huts, the aptly named Go To The Beach Road also runs down to the sea. This area, LB Complex, is a fledgling development to create another whole mini-village and down by the water, you’ll find the restaurants, Por Par and Coco bookending the bar bistro, Titanic, literally a boat. Beautiful Bar and Rude Boy, a reggae bar, are at either end. A few more beer bars line the wide approach street and there’s a pizzeria as you turn in. Up by the road too, the tiny Stay Inn Hostel (currently closed) has two small dorms.
Continuing along the main road, meanwhile, it’s an easy 2 to 3 minute walk to Lonely Beach village itself.
In the village and Up and Down the Sois (Streets)
Gu’s Bay Bar and the tattoo shop, Danny’s, are located in the shop houses just before the bridge, whilst opposite, Oneka Seafood is the only one of the restaurants which have survived the Covid-19 business down-turn – Lonely Beach is perhaps the most affected of all areas on Koh Chang by the pandemic.
Carrying on just a few more metres, you can turn into Soi Tian Chai 1, the first street that comes off the main road running down to the sea. The aptly named Restaurant Soi 1 occupies the corner space.
Immediately down Soi 1, the long established burger and kebab joint provides the late night fare whilst opposite, Oom Guesthouse, Thale Guesthouse, Cafe del Sunshine and Shanti Shanti (currently closed) and run in a row down the left hand side of the road.
You’re now in the heart of Lonely Beach’s party area. Himmel Bar and its offshoots starts things off, with Tattoo Bar (currently closed) opposite. Next door, Ting Tong, the late opening bar and open-air club, is arguably the main venue of the whole scene.
The retail outlet Wine Gallery sits on the corner of a connecting street back to Soi Tian Chai 2, itself running parallel 50 meters away. Also along here, you’ll find the accommodation entrance for Cafe del Sunshine. Maco Jaco Bungalows has been pulled down.
Sunflower Bungalows, complete with its One Love and Clubhouse bar and shop (both currently closed), find themselves in the thick of the action after Ting Tong, with X Bar and Bungalows opposite.
Back Route to Beach
Following the curve to the right at the bottom of the soi, you reach the bungalows of Sea Flower Resort, which sit on the rocky seafront. The original party and backpacker Treehouse Lodge was located around here and so goes the story, the owner coined the name Lonely Beach as a means of attracting early visitors to her bungalows in the late 1990’s. The name is now universal, though locals do still refer to Hat Tha Nam, the real Thai name.
At the very end of the track, it is sometimes possible to hop across the inlet and walk along the path past the front of Rude Boy Bar and its neighbours in the new development area and then onto Lonely Beach itself, a useful shortcut.
Back to Soi 1 again, the road leads down to the older Sunset Huts, also one of the very first resorts to open in this area. Sunset’s bungalows lie in two rows along the seafront and following them, leads you to Sky Beach Resort, a small Italian backpacker style resort.
On the corner and flanking the right hand side of the street is Warapura Resort, one of the top Lonely Beach boutique resorts and also home to Roxy Bar. Late 2020, this resort split in half, with Casa Beach effectively taking the accommodation in the back and the swimming pool.
You are now actually at the bottom of Soi 2, so by taking this back to the main road, you complete the village grid. Along the way, you pass the hostel, OYO KLKL, with the Australian owned small resort Carpe Diem next door. Here, you’ll also find the other end other end of that connecting street to Soi 1 as mentioned above. Antenna Guesthouse (currently closed) sits opposite.
Baan Mai Minimart, the music bar Stone Free (Thale Guesthouse) and Om Bar (same as the guesthouse on Soi 1) are all found in short order as you move up the street. Lam Yai Bungalows has been demolished.
At the top, the coffee shop and pizzeria Sleepy Owl (currently closed), with its accompanying hostel at the rear, is located on the corner where the soi rejoins the main road.
On The Hillside and Leaving The Village – Lonely Beach
Between the two sois on the main road, Ploy Inn offers rooms on the mountain side behind its restaurant and there are other cheap eats and stalls including Guitar House (currently closed) .
Another street, Soi Tian Chai 3, heads inland and uphill with Day Night Bungalows at its start. Janina’s Resort, Happy Yokee Huts (both currently closed), Easy House (shut down permanently) and Little Eden are spaced out on either side as you go up, with Oasis Bungalows occupying the prime position at the top. Climb up to their treehouse for the fabulous views out over the whole area.
Continuing along the main road from the turn to Soi 3, the minimart starts the next section which includes Beach Jungle, bar, restaurant and rooms, and Janrassammee Homestay.
Exotic Bungalows, restaurant, bungalows and rooms and the tiny Green Sun Bungalows, both Russian owned, lead on towards BB Lonely Beach, which encompasses its dive shop, pool, gym and hostel – only the gym is currently open. The lively bar of Margaritaville is last up on the mountain side, it too having rooms out back.
Meanwhile back opposite Soi 3, Kachapura Resort (currrently very closed), its restaurant at the front and bungalows in the gardens at the back, starts a run of resorts and now abandoned diners as you head south. You can find both food and accommodation at Lonely Beach Resort and Magic Garden Resort. The bar built around the amazing ancient tree by Fish House has collapsed but the bungalows in the resort itself are still open. Look out too for the long running beach and hippy clothes store, which is a cut above the normal island offerings.
Leaving Lonely Beach
At the far end of Lonely Beach village just after the small diner and OYO My Hostel (currently closed), a final soi leads down to the boutique resort, Nest Sense Resort and Paradise Cottage, with its bungalows, restaurant and bar by the sea.
UPDATED SEPTEMBER 22 for 22/23 Season
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