Ao Kao, in the south west of Koh Mak, is a beautiful long beach, with resorts spread out along its length, whilst restaurants and cafes are grouped together on the main road running behind it.
The clear turquoise sea is perfect for swimming and the islands of Koh Rayang Nai and Koh Rayang Nok, which lie just a little way offshore, are within a gentle kayak distance.
Eastern End | Central Section | Back Road to Ao Suan Yai | Western End | Laem Tukkata
Eastern End – Ao Kao Beach
Reached by a small track running off Ao Nid road, the most easterly resort is Lazy Days Resort and continuing along the sand, you’ll find Baan Ao Kao, Homehug Restaurant and one of the island’s largest resorts, White Sand Beach Resort. Homehug also has a homestay at the end of another track which leads back towards that same Ao Nid road.
The family friendly Palm Beach Resort and the traveller’s favourite, Island Huts sit next door to White Sand Beach Resort, and between them all, they share one of the best stretches of beach on Koh Mak.
Access to White Sand Beach Resort and Palm Beach Resort is off the main Ao Kao road by Phoenix Muay Thai, the pizza restaurant Little Red Oven, Food Art Hut (Thai and western dishes, coffee, breakfasts) and their offshoot, Roja – tie dye classes and products. You can get to Island Huts, by turning in just after Koh Mak Garden View. You can also connect from the White Sand Beach Resort lane to the Island Huts one.
Island Shop, very useful for those last minute gifts, the long established Koh Mak Divers, the restaurant Q Bar and a couple of minimarts are also in this vicinity. Koh Mak Garden is the impressive Lanna style villa about 100 metres back from the road.
Central Section – Ao Kao Beach
A longish stretch of undeveloped beach follows the above cluster of activity and the road reflects this, with little happening other than the diner, KohMak Party Seafood at the start and a couple of private houses on patches of cleared land among the rubber trees. After about a kilometre, the road doglegs right back behind the sand shortly after Mr Pon and his slow bar coffee, the minimart and erratically open mini food court.
Tables Tales, the open air restaurant from the Koh Mak Ferry family, begins this next section, with two more very popular restaurants, Kon Gin Sen and Food Garden alongside. Monkey Bar has it roadside outlet here too, with their few basic rooms, restaurant and other bar area down by the sea. Look out too for Mong, a popular little Thai diner, My Saltwater Heart Boutique (stylish beachwear, bags et al) and Vela Cafe.
Down by the sea in this stretch, the ultra hip, Cha Cha Beach Club has its home, with their new neighbour, Little Bear Bar and Restaurant, which opened in 2026.
From the White Sand Beach Resort end, it’s a good 15 minutes walk along the road to here, less time if ambling on the sand, but you will get wet if the tide is high. Either route, do bring a torch in the evening as Koh Mak does not go in for too much street lighting.
Along from Cha Cha, By The Sea and Baan Koh Mak line the beach side, with Ball Cafe, Yo’s Corner Hostel and the garden pop-up restaurant, Blue House, opposite their roadside entrances. Behind them all, The River Retreat offers accommodation and a restaurant/late bar in and around the lagoon.
Pier Area
The bigger, more hotel-like, Makathanee Resort dominates the next section, with its main accommodation block flanking the road. The resort has its own pier, which is used by Leelawadee Speedboats, coming from the mainland and Kai Bae Huts Speedboats, coming from Koh Chang, Koh Wai or Koh Kood.
Leading up to it, you’ll find the final set of restaurants including the vegan Pak Pak (same owners as By The Sea), Aimmy, Rabbit, Clay Pot, the tiny fusion style M.A. Bistro (and Pivo Grill, its offshoot opposite), Island Gelato and new in 2025/26 the cafe, Coble.
Totti’s Scooters (and boats for charter), Baan Talay Hostel with its handful of cheap rooms, the pharmacy and a couple of minimarts complete the picture.
All in all, the atmosphere throughout these parts is extremely laid back, with traffic at a minimum. It’s perfect for an evening stroll to choose where to eat and where to kick back with a drink.
The Back Road to Ao Suan Yai
At the back of Makathanee Resort you can pick up the road that leads to the other coast at Ao Suan Yai, home to Seavana Resort and Koh Mak Resort.
At the start of this connecting road, Koh Mak Massage sits roadside, with its cabanas, Koh Mak Living overlooking the river behind. The German owned Koh Mak Sportsbar (good for the football) and the tiny local diner, C’est Bien are immediately next door.
Continue along for two good guesthouses, AP Guesthouse and Hanoi House, now joined by the restaurant, Mono’s Terrace in the middle. On the other side, Koh Mak Disc Golf has its large playing area under the trees.
Finally, another local Thai restaurant, Krua Khun Mam Seafood, the bohemian spot, Art House, with its live music and Terraria Cafe round off the set. Good Time Sport Resort fills the area opposite them.
The steep little hill brings you out on a selection of private houses, the small boutique hotel, Islanda Resort and more private villas. From all of these spots, the views out over the bay beneath to Koh Kham are simply magnificent.
At this crossroads, you can bear right past Islanda to ultimately pick up the sandy track that winds its way behind Seavana Resort and Koh Mak Resort to the pier on Ao Suan Yai or go left, with Cococape Resort and the route to Laem Tookata at the end. Allow about 20 to 25 minutes to walk between the Ao Kao Beach and Ao Suan Yai Beach.
Western End – Ao Kao Beach
After Makathanee Resort, the beach becomes known locally as Ao Kra Tueng. Miss You Resort, TK Huts (and the bar Sips), Baanyai Guesthouse (formerly Baan Chailay), Sabai Beach Resort, Holiday Beach Resort (now abandoned) and Big Easy are the final resorts on this lovely stretch – like that near White Sand Beach Resort at the other end, it’s one of island’s best.
Opposite the resorts above, Nuchzabmaks restaurant and Chill Cafe share the area with Twocans, a two storey motel block of rooms ands bungalows. There are also some holidays homes and the little Thai diner, Green House Kitchen, as you snake around the corner.
Follow the road and you end up at the track down to the former Holiday Beach Resort or one that goes straight on, giving access to Big Easy, but no further. The lane to the right leads to more private villas including Villa Edena.
Continuing along the beach, it is possible ,if the tide is in your favour, to walk from Big Easy to the next bay where you will come across Hidden Beach Resort, a collection of stylish bungalows up on stilts, hip bar and party venue. Stumble over the rocks beyond that and after about 10 minutes, just after the house by the ocean, you arrive at Laem Tookata (or Tukkata).
Laem Tookata
Laem Tookata is a charming little cove which used to be home to three old style backpacker bungalow operations, Baan Ing Kao, Baan Laem Tookata Beach and Ma Ruay. Of these, Baan Ing Kao was sold in 2021 and in its place the more upscale Laem Tukkata Beach Cafe and Resort opened in late 2024 – rooms either side of the central restaurant. The other two little resorts are now occupied by locals.
To reach Hidden Beach Resort and Laem Tookata by motorbike, far easier than going by the beach route, follow the road to Cococape Resort as described above and veer to the left at its entrance.
Over the next few kilometres, you pass the back of Villa Edena and then drive above Ao Pra beach, home to the excellent boutique resort, Mira Montra. Shortly after that, you’ll spot the track down to Hidden Beach Resort on your left.
Pebble Beach
Continuing on from here towards Laem Tookata, one newer road branches off to the right and nipping up here, it brings you out at the top of a steep slope down to Laem Tukkata Beach Resort as above or at its very end, a private development.
Opposite the development, you’ll spot a brightly coloured sign leading up the hillside to the so called Pebble Beach. This is a small cove on the other coast, great for sunsets but we should add, frequently filled with trash from the boats. You can also pick up the steep track to the very top for its views – there is a sign.
Meanwhile, if you don’t take that newer road right above, the older road turns into more of a track before arriving at the first of the former bungalow operations on Laem Tookata itself. You can stumble on 50 metres or so until you reach the back of Laem Tukkata Beach Resort.
Incidentally, once here and also up on the elevated concrete road, the views across to Koh Rayang Nai and Koh Rayang Nok are superb.
UPDATED May 26 for 26/27 Season
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