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Bang Bao Koh Chang

At a Glance

  • Likely to meet: Tourists, divers, daytrippers, some backpackers, travellers
  • The Beach: None, up the road at Bang Bao Beach (Klong Goi)
  • Accommodation: Homestay, boutique resorts, bit of backpacker
    From 300bt fan rooms up to 6,500bt for 2 room cottage
    • Resorts: Resolution, Bhuvarin
    • Appartments and Villas: Tranquillity Bay, Villa Matcha, Teak Hill Pool Villas
    • Motel Rooms/Guesthouses: Alysia Springs, Sea House, Jerpordee Residence, Ocean Blue
    • Bungalows: Cliff Cottage, Hill House, Padel Lodge, Baan Suan Khun Ta, Orchid Garden, Nuttakit, Khao Nok Homestay, Homestay Beach Pa Na
    • Backpacker: Hippy Hut, Neeno
  • Restaurants: Seafood on the pier, some local cheap eats, some fusion
    • Ruan Thai, Chow Lay, Nongyim Seafood, Chilli House, Jerpordee Cafe, U Khao U Nam, Mia Farang Noi, Oon
    • Coffee Shop/Cafes: Bang Bao Delight, Lazy Hour, Viewtalay (all on the pier), Pipin
  • Nightlife: Sunset style, all very low key
    • Bars: Rasta View, Reggae Hill (between Bailan and Bang Bao)
  • Other: Dive Shops, Snorkeling Boats, Fishing Trips, Shopping, Minimarts, Pharmacy, ATMs, Ticket agencies, Inter-island boat companies
  • Highlights: The pier, the seafood, boat trips and diving, shopping
  • Lowlights: Lack of immediate beach, daytrippers on the pier

Bang Bao Koh Chang Map

At an Island Pace – Bang Bao

Bang Bao used to be a classic Thai fishing village with life centred around a narrow pier of traditional wooden stilt houses and boats moored up ready for sea. On land, more houses, some with their own small jetties, were dotted around the beautiful large bay, local shops clustered along the little soi leading from the main road down to the pier and a school and temple sat on the mountain side.

Nowadays, much of that has changed as tourism has replaced fishing as the principal source of income and the village has established itself as the island’s main point of departure for the myriad of competing trips exploring the archipelago, both above and below water.

The stilt houses have been converted into the odd homestay, a few dive shops, a couple of large seafood restaurants but, in the main, into a plethora of almost identical shops, rammed to the gunwales with souvenirs. Small offshoot structures have been added with guesthouses or private dwellings and around the bay itself, there are resorts, bungalows and a large condo development.

The Pier

The pier itself has been extended to accommodate the numerous dive, speed and snorkel boats, with them tied up two or three deep along the now concrete jetty, which sports a lighthouse at its far end. At the start and end of each day, as the tourists set out and return, the narrow walkway leading up to the boats is the busiest place on the island.

Nonetheless, outside of rush hour, there is lots to explore and sitting out over the water for lunch or dinner is still a great holiday experience. Whilst this is not a beach area, that is another couple of kilometres further south at Bang Bao Beach (Klong Goi) or back to Lonely Beach to the north, there is good accommodation from budget to boutique around the bay and on the pier.

The atmosphere is peaceful and laid back, with a few boats still fishing and unloading their catches and locals living their lives in amongst the hustle and bustle as they have always done. There are also some quite wonderful views thrown in for good measure.

Northern Side of Bay | Pier | Southern Side of Bay


Around The Bay, Northern Side

Heading south from Bailan Beach, the road snakes and curves around the coastline, skirting through the forest past the odd staff building and the ever evolving Reggae Hill, a bar and restaurant. DARA (closed), a private rehabilitation centre, sits at the top of the last hill, before you drop down into the outer reaches of Bang Bao itself.

Here, on your left, hidden away in the undergrowth are the decaying buildings of the abandoned (or on indefinite hold) Aquarius project, a development of hotel, villas, shopping and restaurant mall. Principally aimed at the booming market for affluent Chinese, it started up in the pandemic and then finished a year after – the forest is now reclaiming its space.

Nuttakit (formerly Wild Hippie), with its bungalows up on the hill above, sits on the bend, whilst the small lane to the left leads you up past boats and some private houses to Hippy Hut, reggae inspired bungalows in a very peaceful setting. Opposite Nuttakit, a small road takes you in a roundabout way to the north side of the bay, where you’ll find a selection of bungalows, resorts and homestays spread out along the hillside and water’s edge.

The narrow street passes the track down to the long stay car park, which you can also access from near the pier, the two sets of bungalows at Baan Suan Khun Ta and Orchid Garden and then the gated entrance up to the cliffside area of Aquarius, its would-be hotel section. This part would ultimately link over the hillside all the way back to the show house and mall area you passed on the way in. It’s a huge site if it does indeed ever complete.

The Resorts

After a few more twists and turns, the back road reaches Hill House and its bungalows in tiers up the slope. If you take the little road between the bungalows and keep going to the very top, you emerge at the German owned Padel Lodge – two boutique style rooms and a Padel Court on the cliffs behind, a fabulous vantage point.

Back on the the Bang Bao side, Cliff Cottage Resort, home to BB Divers is next along- a combination of single storey a/c rooms facing the sea and then bungalows up on the hill and at the back, overlooking the little cove beneath, a great spot for snorkeling.

bang-bao-koh-chang-inlet-nirvana
The cove behind Cliff Cottages and Nirvana

The road goes straight through the abandoned Nirvana Resort and after passing Matcha Villa, an imposing Italian development of pool and houses high up on the rock, you reaching Homestay Bungalows and then up the hill around the corner, Bhuvarin Resort and Resolution Resort. Both of these have their accommodation and pools tiered down the steep slopes towards the water.

At the very end of the road, you can drop down to Khao Nok Homestay with its restaurant, bungalows and wooden jetties. Beyond them, it is possible to venture down a tiny track to the naval shrine at the end.

bang-bao-koh-chang-bay
View from resorts on the northern side of the bay

This shrine is dedicated to Admiral Chumphon Khet Udomsak, the founder of the Thai Navy. It’s one of several on the island, the others being outside of White Sand Beach and in the very far southern corner after Long Beach. All commemorate the loss of lives suffered during WWII, when the French Navy clashed with the Thai fleet off this coast, sinking three of its ships in the so-called Battle of Koh Chang.


On The Pier

Back on the main road, the ageing Alysia Springs sits opposite U Khao U Nam, a good, cheap Thai restaurant by the bridge, where the inland track takes you up to a tiny diner, Mia Farang Noi and Teak Hill Pool Villas. The actual turning down to Bang Bao Pier itself is on the right, with the local school and temple on the other side. Like the ongoing Buddha project in Salak Phet, Bang Bao Temple is currently constructing a high tower with viewing platform.

Various local shops, motorbike rentals and cheap diners line each side as you head down towards the sea, with a couple of small plazas at the far end. Sunny Inn is tucked away at the back of one of these, with Koh Chang Divers and Thai Ocean Scuba Academy on respective corners at the entrance.

You can also find here Seascape and BB Bungalows, long stay rooms and bungalows, BB Divers, the first of its two Bang Bao shops and the base of Mr Khai, the snorkeling trip company.

At the bottom, the ubiquitous 7-11 sits in front of a car park on the right hand side, with the offices of Scuba Squad and Boonsiri, the inter-island catamaran, at the rear. A taxi rank is on the left.

pier Koh Chang
Locals on the pier

Koh Kut Express, island hopping services to Koh Wai, Koh Mak and Koh Kood, also has its ticket booth here – they took over Bang Bao Boats so you will still see that name on the actual speedboats. A small street, with a coffee shop at its start, squeezes between the buildings to another car park.

Restaurants and Accommodation

Walking down the pier, after passing a wooden jetty on the left to the very good local clinic, it’s then a mixture of souvenir shops and ticket booths, together with the odd cheap diner – everything cheek by jowl with one another. Look out for Tee Fishing, a very well stocked outlet for the enthusiasts and the other walkways branching off the main drag to the homestays of Sea House and Good View and the restaurant at Chilli House.

Across the way from them, you can join the throng at the seafood restaurants of Ruan Thai and Chow Lay. Very popular with Thais and tourists alike, they offer vast menus of dishes such as seabass steamed in lime, soft shell crab with black pepper or raw prawns with chilli dip. A table by the water for a long lazy lunch is still a special holiday memory.

boats pier
Boats moored up in Bang Bao

After Chow Lay, you’ll find the stylish cafe Lazy Hour and down the stilted wooden jetty, the sometimes open, Chai Garden Home, a cosy bar/restaurant over the water. Across the way from that is another excellent and much smaller seafood diner, Nongyim. Bangbao Paradise Homestay alongside has now shut down.

Next up, BB Divers has their main office, with Bang Bao Delight, the coffee shop and bakery, a few doors further down and the walkway leading to Jerpordee Residence and Cafe (the former Buddha View). Opposite that, look out for the very simple Pod’s – sashimi fresh from the tanks out front.

The End of the Pier

At the end, an offshoot walkway leads past the simple guesthouse of Ocean Blue before reaching the last remnants of the abandoned Koh Chang Sea Hut, now just a solitary building after the government removal of its illegal individual designer huts.

Typical local houses

With Viewtalay Cafe in a prime location on the left, the pier now opens out to become purely functional with the snorkeling and fishing boats tied one against each other. The inter-island speedboat of Koh Kut Express leave from about 1/2 way along, Boonsiri further down on the left.

At the far end, the diving boats and Mr Khai make their home near the lighthouse, where other fishing boats from the offshore fleets also moor up here to fill up with freshwater and diesel.

bang-bao-koh-chang-pier
The pier

Around The Bay, Southern Side – Bang Bao

After the turning down to the pier, the road starts out for the end of the island passing the temple and then running directly behind the vast condo development of Tranquility Bay, which dominates the southern side of the bay. Cheap bungalows at Neeno, the cafe and rooms of Pipin and the reggae inspired Rasta View bookend the condo block.

A few metres further on and oOpposite the Government Park Rangers Station, Rasta View also has a selection of huts and a minimart. It’s neighboured by the street entrance to the accommodation at Secret Garden and Botanica Villa – this is actually the far end of Hat Sai Noi and beyond that Klong Kloi Beach, Bang Bao’s beach area.

Looking back at Bang Bao from Hat Sai Noi Koh Chang
Looking back at Bang Bao from Hat Sai Noi Beach

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