The last accessible area on the north west coast is known locally as Klong Yai Kee.
It’s a very undeveloped part of Koh Kood, with backroads winding through the forest, a waterfall, some deserted beaches and just three resorts, Bann Makok, Captain Hook and Soneva Kiri. There are no shops or restaurants.
Getting to Klong Yai Kee
If you find yourself on the main road to or from Ao Salad, the arrival pier for the mainlands boats, you simply need to look out for the signs for Klong Yai Kee waterfall and follow them.
If coming from Klong Mad down on the north west coast, you take the right turning immediately before Suanya Resort. Having passed the large boutique bungalows of Koh Kood Beach Resort, followed by Kood Life and Koh Kood Garden, you reach the route branching off to the left, once again signed for the waterfall. Incidentally, if you didn’t turn here but went straight-on, you arrive at the Ao Salad road as above.
Waterfall and Mangroves
Once on the right route, the waterfall itself is a few hundred metres along, accessed down a small side street, with a cheap restaurant across the way.
Beyond it, the road arrives at the very secluded boutique guesthouse, Bann Makok the Getaway which nestles amongst the mangroves on the canal or klong, as it is called in Thai.
At the end of this same canal, on the seafront itself, is the upscale resort of Captain Hook, with the tiny so called Palm Beach on the opposite side. These are very isolated places to stay, though they do provide transport so you can explore the island.
If you continue still further north, a lovely drive on narrow roads through the the trees, you eventually stumble upon a tiny wooden pier hidden away in the mangroves. This is the land pick-up point for Captain Hook Resort – it has no direct road access – and next to it, the small path brings you out at Benz Restaurant, used by guests from Soneva Kiri.
Dead End and Beachs
Crossing over the impressive new bridge spanning the canal to the right, the route snakes up a hill and ultimately arrives at the back gate of Soneva Kiri itself. With access strictly prohibited, you are effectively at a dead end so must turn around and retrace your steps.
Lining this last stretch of road, there are a few one table places to eat and near the start of these, a couple of sandy trails cut through the long grass to the sea and a beautiful untouched beach.
At one end, you’ll find a lagoon and house, and at the other, just around the corner, you stumble upon Soneva’s former private beach area, now abandoned. The tiny island of Koh Raet is offshore, great for snorkeling.
Further up the coast, Koh Kood’s other island, Koh Maisi Lek, is home to Soneva Kiri’s airstrip, carved out across its middle – this allows the resort to fly in guests on Cessnas, before ferrying them across to the resort on its private speedboats.
Return to Koh Kood Beaches