UPDATED MAY 2017
Koh Mak resorts and bungalows are centred on the wonderful long sweeping beach of Ao Kao, which also offers the island’s pick of restaurants and bars on the road that runs behind it.
Ao Suan Yai, itself another lovely long stretch of sand, plays host to three of the larger resorts.
The handful of resorts on the south, east and north coasts are much more spread out and secluded. You can also find holiday houses to rent scattered across the island.
All the Koh Mak resorts collect you from the piers on arrival, you just need to let them know which boat you are taking and similarly, they will drop you back at the end of your stay.
Rooms prices per night for Koh Mak resorts are broadly in line with Koh Chang and cheaper than Koh Kood.
Ao Kao offers mostly small mid-range bungalow resorts just off the sand.
Baan Koh Maak from 1,500bt a night stands out, while Palm Beach Resort has a good reputation for being family friendly. Next door, the long established Ao Kao Resort continues to expand and just past that, the Lazy Days, remains very popular.
At the other end, Holiday Beach Resort provides clean, straightforward bungalows from 1,000bt and Sky Beach provides good value too at 1,600bt. There is one small hotel, Makathanee Resort, with its own pier for the speedboats from the mainland, Koh Chang or Koh Kood.
For backpacker options, try Island Huts, 300bt to 400bt or down in the far western corner of the island at Laem Tookata, three 500bt operations sit side by side in a beautiful bay.
Over on the north west coast at Ao Suan Yai Beach, there are just four resorts. The upmarket and new Seavana Beach Resort, from 2,250bt a night sits next door to its elder sister Koh Mak Resort, with the cheaper bungalows of Pompkak Dee and Happy Days at the northern end, both from 1,000bt upwards. Right on the sand, Golden Beach Camping now offers some basic tents from 300bt to 500bt.
Cococape Resort is located on the headland , whilst on the hill above, ten minutes walk from the sand and sea, Islanda Resort at 2,500bt upwards and the cheaper Thaidaho Vista have stunning views out to sea, with the long established Good Time Resort opposite and looking south.
In the south and scattered across the east coast, where the beaches are not the best, a handful of very secluded resorts have sprung up. The south coast offers backpacker and traveller style at Banana Sunset or Pano Resort, with prices from 600bt to 1,000bt a night. Naivacha Tent is a new 2,000bt glamping option and Ao Pong Resort down near Ao Nid Pier has bungalows starting at 500bt a night with villas recently added from 2,500bt.
The east coast provides more boutique and upscale resorts, with Plubpla Koh Mak Retreat at 2,500bt to 4,000bt and Little Moon Villas, from 2,000bt, the pick of the bunch. Bamboo Hideaway, Sea View Resort and Sea Breeze Resort sit up on hill overlooking the ocean, both very secluded, with rooms ranging from 1,200bt to 2,500bt.
Not to be forgotten, the northern coast does have two more even remote places to stay on its rocky beaches. The eclectic and uniquely designed Cinnamon Art Resort offers a mix of cabanas and hotel rooms at 2,500bt upwards, while the down-to-earth Green View Bungalows, complete with its beach sculptures of crabs and herons, has fan and a/c rooms from as low as 600bt a night. Hiring a motorbike to get out and about would be a real advantage, but both spots offer fabulous seclusion.